The Alps. What more can I say? it is the most stunning and beautiful place in Europe without a question of doubt.
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Col du Mont Cenis |
I'm not sure what makes me love them so much. After all, they're not exactly a cyclists best friend: they are home of tortuous gradients, wet weather and up to 15 miles of uphill struggle. That doesn't bother me. To me it's a training ground, a time and place to think and a place where at times, the silence can be deafening.
Only a few days a go, I was slogging up the Stelvio Pass, 2758M high and home to 43 hairpins coming from the north side... most people would wince if they had to face this challenge. Not me. I loved every moment of it. Two and a half hours worth of sweating. Sweating from places you didn't think were possible. Motorcyclists drifting by effortlessly. I wasn't bothered, I was whistling along and admiring the beauty of the climb.
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Stelvio Pass - highest pass in Italy |
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The other side of the Stelvio Pass |
Only 3 cyclists passed me - which wasn't too bad I thought. They were on their top of the range carbon bikes. I passed more though; in the region of 30 would be my guess. I relished every moment when I saw the horror on their faces as they glanced at my tent and clothes strapped to with a bungee cord strapped to my rear rack, drying in the wind. One Belgium guy stopped me at the top and shook my hand, he couldn't believe I had come from Turkey and he offered hospitality in Belgium, if I wanted it.
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Not fantastic planning from the Italians |
Another fond memory was the pass I made over Passo Pennes (pronounced "Pen" "kness" - I think). Starting from Bolzano, this winds through a gorge that is a mere 2 metres wide, but 10-20 metres deep. The first 10km take you through a lot of tunnels; 80% of the road is tunnel and these range from 100 to a mile long. It then expands into an amass of space and grazing flocks (where I camped. It was bloody cold!). The following day I had a mere 800 vertical metres to climb, which I was dreading. It was pissing down and my lightweight mentality wasn't O too well prepared for cold weather. I put on my extra layer; in the form of a waterproof gillet and headed off. Within a 500metres I was soaked to the bone and shivering; the only good point was I was ascending and could keep reasonably warm. I reached the top and started to descend. I honestly couldn't feel my finger and my toes were freezing (the sandals didn't have much protection); I hadn't been as cold since Lawrence and I went for our 04:30 Cotgrave ride in the middle of winter. Don't ask.
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Pass in Slovenia - I forget the name... |
I got to the bottom and warmed up with a latte and apple strudel, and to my surprise it was a glass of milk and not the coffee I was expecting. I did wander why she asked me it for heiss or kalt.
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Little wild camp near Lake Bled |
Another hot topic of this week, quite literally, is that of WarmShowers. A website equivalent to Coachsurfer, specifically for the touring cyclist. I have had the joy of being welcomed into 4 people's homes in Slovenia, Italy and Austria and I cannot thank these people enough. Their hospitality was second to none; so thank you again Ferrucio, Piergiorgio and Emmanuella, Renato and Phillip and Nikki. I can return the favour, when I eventually get a house sorted for next year. It won't be much though!
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PG and Emmanuella near Trento |
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Ferrucio in the plains of Northern Italy |
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Renato in Slovenia |
Strava is now up to date peeps...
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